5 Nights, 5 Bars, 5 Gin & Tonics
We know that Yamanashi has long held prestige in Japan for its wines. And in recent years we’ve enjoyed an impressive increase in the availability of great beer, especially local beer. But if you’re in the mood for a cocktail, the following bars may interest you. Not wine bars, or beer bars, or even snack bars, just some “regular” bars.
I went to a different Kofu bar every night for five nights. Just a gin and tonic in the early evening so I could take some photos, chat with the bartender, and enjoy the atmosphere.
*Otoshi refers to the sit-down charge on most bar bills. The charge is usually offset by some small snack served unsolicited upon seating. Don’t be surprised if you find an extra ¥500 on your bill. All bars are recommended.
Monday
Place: Fumon
Location: in a quiet neighborhood a few blocks north of Maizuru Castle Park
Seats: about 10
Crowd: lots of regulars, regardless of the day of the week
Otoshi: yes
Decor: There’s a fine wooden bar with simple wooden stools. There is a lot of David Bowie stuff - albums and posters - on display.
Gin: Tanqueray
This fun and friendly bar opened in 1990 near the north exit of Kofu Station, approximately where the Fujimura Museum (藤村記念館) now stands. It moved to its current location after the north exit renovation in 2011. There is a table charge but I’ve gotten lots of little snacks, like chips, cheetos, and a mini-sandwich of eggplant and miso. It’s lively but not too noisy because customers are usually watching 80’s music videos. It can be a bit smokey though.
Tuesday
Place: Authentic Bar U-ME（ユーメ）
Location: in Koshu Yume Kouji (甲州夢小路), to the east of Kofu Stations north exit, the shopping area with all the traditional-looking buildings
Seats: about 10 at the bar plus a table
Otoshi: yes
Decor: Very elegant, even romantic
Gin: Generous
This is really a whiskey bar, a place to try scotch not found in many other bars in Japan. There are also fine chocolates for sale. There is jazz playing softly and a piano. The cocktails are pricier than some other bars but it comes down to the quality of ingredients. Not only did my gin & tonic have a fine French artisan gin, the tonic mixer was a brand (Fever Tree) unavailable elsewhere in Yamanashi.
Wednesday
Place: Bar Basin
Location: On the periphery of Kofu’s nighttime entertainment district, on quieter street, in a shipping container shop
Seats: 10 at the bar plus a table
Otoshi: yes
Decor: Formal but welcoming
Gin: Tanqueray
Bar Basin is only a year old in 2020 but the owner has tended bar in Kofu for years so she already has loyal customers. The bar is worth visiting for the building alone, made from a repurposed shipping container. The bar has a small balcony and the first floor houses a Vietnamese sandwich/tapioca drink shop. The bartender thinks some people feel intimidated going into a new bar but she wants customers to feel comfortable that they can get a drink that suits them without having to pay too much.
Thursday
Place: Sam’s Chai Chai
Location: around the corner from Basin, still outside of the entertainment district
Seats: about 9 at the bar plus a table
Decor: I could imagine knocking down the walls and putting the bar on a beach
Gin: Beefeater
City Council member and DO Funk lead singer Sam has been running Chai Chai since 2008. On the ground floor, with lots of windows, the bar feels spacious and comfortable. On fine nights with the doors open it captures an open air feel. There’s a bit of food available too.
Both Bar Basin and Sam’s Chai Chai participated in a spicy food festival recently, each serving green curry.
Friday
Place: One-Shot Bar Noah
Location: On Ura-Kasuga Alley. Approach from the north (Ginza Street) as the alley gets seedy if you go further south. If you’re using Google Maps, search for ノア.
Seats: 8
Crowd: an older, very friendly crowd - I didn’t take any photos of the interior because it was already full of regulars at 6 PM.
Otoshi: I’m not sure. I think I paid less than I should have but maybe that was some sort of treat for my first visit.
Decor: Resembles a ship’s interior. I’ve seen this aesthetic in Yokohama before but not in Kofu.
Gin: Gordon’s
Open since the 60’s, Noah offers eccentric decor, food, and conversation. A little off the beaten track but that may change as a few other bars and restaurants have opened nearby. It also can get a bit smokey.
For those who’d like to check out these bars, I thought some daytime photos of their exteriors would be helpful in spotting them. Unfortunately, it’s been overcast and the photos aren’t too attractive.
